This fireplace installation
section is meant only as a guide and we always recommend that you use the
services of an accredited installer. All wood heaters are reasonably similar
in their installation requirements (and so we deal mainly with those in this
section) but gas heaters have various installation styles depending on the
particular unit so please refer to that exact model for flueing information.
For example, if you want to see how a Regency P36 gas flame fire can be installed and
flued, go to the Regency gas page and find the P36.
is placed in central position.
system runs straight up and out.
system is unobstructed by trees or other objects.
is carried out in accordance with AS2918.
- Single Storey Straight Through
roof space above desired position. If there are roof members in the way, either
reposition and re support if possible or use a set of bends to find a clear
run, or reposition the heater. Refer to clearances on heater brochure to make
sure any heat sensitive walls or other combustible materials are well clear.
plumb to locate centre of ceiling hole and scribe circle 10.25" or 260mm
diameter (for normal 6" to 10" system). Cut hole.
drop box in position so it protrudes through ceiling about 150mm or more if
you have exposed beams and fix using brackets to supporting roof members and
then fix brackets to drop box.
ceiling plate and proceed to lift tiles or with metal roof, find centre and
cut hole leaving tabs which can be bent up and used to fix through.
the outer flues (three fixing points on each join - stainless pop rivets or
short stainless screws) and raise to desired height through roof (min 600mm
or higher to beat ridge height). Overall flue height should be min 4.5 meters
from heater. Remember the active flues go in with the crimp down and the outer
flues are fitted crimp up.
tile roof, cut tiles and replace around outer flue. At this point flashing
can be placed over the outer flue and fixed using silicon. Lead or zincalume
can be used for tile roof and a dektite or aquaseal for a metal roof.
sure 8" gal outer or middle casing is fixed and properly spaced.
active flues and feed through from the top. Secure into heater spigot.
cowl or hat to top of flue using three screws or pops (don't jam the hat on
tight-the flues will expand when hot) and apply silicon over screws and join
fixings. Check flashing is well sealed.
sure heater baffle is correctly fitted and liners are in place (refer to owners
- Double Storey Sraight Through
This procedure is the same
as single storey except that you will be fluing through an upstairs room and
where the flue is situated upstairs should be predetermined. So in this situation
it is often better to work from the upper level, decide the flue position
upstairs and adjust the heater position if necessary or use a set of bends
downstairs to compensate. Having mapped out your flue position, making sure
you have required clearances, you can decide whether you use perforated flue
or solid metal flue through the upstairs level.
If the clearances are tight
or if you will be fluing through a wardrobe, you will need to run a triple
system through this section. However, if you have ample clearance, it is always
preferable to use perforated flue as it will provide more heat to the upstairs
area as well as looking good. Remember any ceiling/floor penetration should
be triple flued the same as roof cavities.
- Wall Penetration at 45 degrees
better to flue straight up and out if you can but if this is impractical or
impossible then the next best method is the 45 deg wall penetration.
Now in some areas where the
temperature can really drop it is necessary to run triple flue from the inside
wall right up to the cowl. This is to ensure the emissions do not condensate
when they pass through the outside flue and can be ejected effectively.
If you live in a kinder climate
where the temperature difference between inside and out is not so great you
should at least make sure that the wall penetration itself is triple flued.
heater having checked outside run is free of obstruction.
It is preferable
to have at least 600mm straight flue off the heater before starting the bend
so set the first flue and bend (crimp down) in the heater and using a straight
edge and spirit level, mark the position on the wall where the flue will pass
wall thickness. The centre of your inside hole will raise by that distance
hole through the wall. This will vary in difficulty depending on the materials
but maintain a 45 deg angle upwards and fit the wall penetration triple 'box'
and outer wall plates. This will make sure the structure so far is locked
Determine the distance to
protrude outside (i.e. is the flue going through the eave or out further to
beat the eave) and place outside bend into position.
from inside bend to the middle of the outside bend and if you have to cut
and join a section of flue take into account the outer small bend so that
you end up with the outside bends nicely centred and spaced. Leave outside
active bend proud so flues can be fitted and fixed.
Once you have fixed
the outside bends you should be pointing in the right direction so it's just
a matter of joining the appropriate number of active flues to gain the required
Drop the active
flues into the bend and fix.
Measure outer flue
run (check cowl - level or skirted) join flues and drop over active flues
either as one or in sections. Note - if triple fluing fit inner casing first.
brackets and fit cowl with three screws making sure the active flue is well
engaged but not jammed on (the flues expand when hot so they need a little
room to move). Check heater baffle and liners.
- Inbuilt Into Existing Fireplace
type of installation depends entirely on the shape and size of the fireplace
Because no two
chimneys are the same, it is necessary to first inspect the chimney for structural
integrity and whether the flue can physically fit through.
In the flue section
of this site you will find an array of gadgets designed to facilitate the
installation in difficult chimneys.
In most cases some
brickwork has to disappear before proceeding and the worst scenario may be
punching through the outside of the chimney and proceeding as with a wall
In any case a pragmatic
approach is required here but AS2918 and the manufacturers advise that the
heater be flued to that standard but if the chimneys internal measurements
do not allow the active flue to pass through, then a section of the flue can
be 'ovalised' to overcome the barrier. Another method is to remove part of
the back of the chimney, flue through the obstruction and re brick or AC Sheet
over the hole.
When flues and register
plate are located, the heater is placed into the cavity and by reaching up
through the heater spigot, the flue or offset can be located.
the case where a chimney takes a bend, and many do, flexi-flue is an excellent
option. Now the top of the chimney is the next consideration. This should
be finished off by fitting an outer flue into the top of the chimney, sealing
with cement and attaching an anti-downdraught cowl.
As with all installations
the finished height is important so check the flue has sufficient height to
clear the ridge and is free of any obstructions (trees or overhangs).
- Zero Clearance
of installation is the same as a straight through except that a triple flue
is required from heater to hat. Manufacturers specifications (in heater section) should be followed in regard
to clearances.In Australia and New Zealand as in many other countries, we have laws and building
codes to ensure the correct installation of wood and gas heaters and fireplaces
that require a flue system. The standard that applies here is AS 2918 and is
available from Standards Australia or on the web at www.standards.com.au It
is strongly recommended that all installations be performed by a builder or
accredited installer who understands and follows these standards.